Beyond Pizza: 5 Ways to Discover Naples (2023)

For many, Naples is a stopover on the way to any destination on the Amalfi Coast.

Visitors generally don't see much of the city other than its pizzerias and Via Toledo, which is lined with chain stores, snack bars, bakeries, and ice cream parlors.

But if you know where to look, you can see a different side of Naples that pays homage to its history, art, and culture.

Here are five lesser-known ways to get to know Sun City better:

Diabo de Mergellina

Busloads of tourists drive past the tiny church of Santa Maria del Parto in Neapolitan's Mergellina district, not noticing that the modest building houses a 16th-century painting with a fascinating tale of magic and seduction.

Mergellina's Devil was painted by Leonardo Grazia in 1542 and depicts the defeat of a devil woman at the hands of Archangel Michaelvisitnaples.eu.

It represents the triumph of Diomede Carafa, Bishop of Ariano Irpino, over temptation, which came in the form of a beautiful Neapolitan woman. According to legend, the woman cast a love spell on Carafa that drove him insane with desire. To break the spell, the bishop was advised by an exorcist to commission the painting.

The small Baroque-style church also houses the tomb of the Italian poet Jacopo Sannazaro. The tomb of the ancient Roman poet Virgil in the Parco Vergiliano di Piedigrotta is worth a visit nearby.

Via de Mergellina. Open from 7:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.; 5:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m., Monday to Sunday. +39 081 664627;http://www.santamariadelparto.it/

Quadratische Quartieri von Chiaia

Not far from the church of Santa Maria del Parto there is a square with a market selling flowers, fresh fish, vegetables, fruit, cheese, pasta and other groceries.

There are a variety of stalls and shops in the square, but venture into an adjacent covered walkway and you'll discover a hidden bonus of other vendors selling toys, books, and more.

The popular restaurant is tucked away in a back cornerCooked dishes "Grandma Anna",Here you can get affordable cafeteria-style lunch and dinner specials from a daily changing menu of traditional Neapolitan dishes. A recent menu included an octopus rice salad, white bean noodles and meatballs. For around 10 euros you can get first and second courses as well as a vegetable side dish. Eat your meal there or take away and find a place to sit on Naples' Lungomare overlooking the sea and Capri.

Riveria de Chiaia, 15, Naples; Hours vary, open daily.

the elliptical ladder

One of the finest examples of Italian Art Nouveau or Art Nouveau architecture in Naples is the Palazzo Mannajuolo in the elegant Chiaia district. Designed by architect Giulio Arata and opened in 1911, the palazzo features an intriguing elliptical staircase that rises up several floors.

From the ground floor, visitors can see the staircase with its marble steps and wrought iron banister. However, the rest of the building is closed to the public. So don't try to go any further or you'll attract the attention of building security.

A vestibule near the stairs contains information about the palazzo and its construction, although there is no English translation.

Once you see the stairs, exit the building to the right and go up the street. Then turn left to continue on Via dei Mille for about half a block. If you turn around, you will see the impressive facade of the palazzo with a false dome. In this street and in Via Gaetano Filangieri you can also enjoy the windows of shops such as Prada, Gucci and Hermes.

Via Gaetano Filangieri (there is a historical plaque in front of the palazzo); Open from 8am to 6pm, Monday to Saturday.

Maybe a Michelangelo angel

Founded in 1411, the Complesso Monumentale Sant'Anna dei Lombardi features works by several famous Renaissance sculptors, including Guido Mazzoni, Antonio Rossellino, Benedetto di Maiano and perhaps Michelangelo.

De Maiano of Florence made an altarpiece in the 1490 chapel by Marino Correale, which is on the right as you enter the church.

Historians believe that an angel in the upper right corner of the altar was created by a youthful Michelangelo. The angel's torso and ironic smile, among other features, are characteristics of the famous Italian sculptor, painter, architect and poet who, according to the church, was probably a pupil of Maiano.

While you can visit much of the complex for free, there is a fee of 6 to see the Correale Chapel, Mazzoni's Lamentation of the Dead Christ and stunning frescoes by Georgio Vasari, who was inspired by Michelangelo to build a small Sistine Chapel in Naples € on.

Monteoliveto Square, 4; Open 9:30am to 6:30pm Monday to Saturday; 12:30-17:00 Sunday;

+39 391 794 4140,https://www.santannadeilombardi.com/it/

Aperitif with sunset and sea view

Few bars in Naples offer panoramic views and a chance to escape the crowds like Terraza La Dolce Vita at the Hotel Excelsior.

The terrace on the 7th floor is furnished in a typical style with white wrought iron tables and chairs. Waiters in white coats bring your drink order and snacks like chips, cookies, and nuts. You can watch Vesuvius, the Gulf of Naples, Capri, Ischia and the sunset over Posillipo while you eat.

Best of all, the cost isn't much more than what you would pay at a noisy, crowded bar across the street. On a recent visit I paid €8 for a glass of white wine, although most mixed cocktails are between €10 and €12.

Via Partenope, Via Francesco Caracciolo 48; Open daily from 12 p.m. to midnight; +39 081 764 0111,https://www.eurostarshotels.it/